Sadie Wilkins from Sherborne’s award-winning indie wine merchant says its time we started to ask a little more about the story in the bottle
We’re not here to champion wine snobbery – who would be? Yet somehow, it still lingers, like a corked bottle at a dinner party, for reasons steeped in history, economics and society.
But wine geekery? That’s a different story, and we’re all for it.
When it comes to trying and sourcing wines, we want the DETAILS. We want to know who’s producing it, where the grapes are grown, how they’re harvested, and what magic happens in the winery. Was the wine aged in oak or steel? How much yeast is involved? Was there malolactic fermentation? We want the full story, right down to the soil beneath the vines.
Many of these answers, after years in the business, can be teased out just by tasting the wine. I can pick up the influence of oak at first sniff, detect the soft texture of lees on my palate, and often make an educated guess about the grape varietals. But there are still surprises – like my recent encounter with David Moulton, chief winemaker at Cape Mentelle.
Vine by vine
David stopped by Sherborne recently, fresh from the annual Wines of Australia tasting in London. Born and bred in Busselton, just 30 minutes from Margaret River, he knows his vineyards like the back of his hand. He started at 18, completed a degree in Viticulture and Oenology, and has since gained experience across Australia and France.
We tasted a range of Cape Mentelle wines, and David’s passion shone through. One thing that left us in awe was the level of soil analysis he and his team carry out – not as a reaction to climate change, but as part of their ongoing quest for excellence. They don’t just know their vineyard block by block; they know it vine by vine. Armed with technology that allows them to map soil types and conditions in minute detail, David and his team can make precision decisions about nurturing and harvesting. The result? Consistently brilliant wines, vintage after vintage.
This, then, is the wine geekery we love. From grape to glass, every step is scrutinised, ensuring that the wine in your glass is not just a drink, but a story – a story of balance, knowledge and craftsmanship. In many ways, it’s like the food industry. Scandals like horse meat or fake organic labels have made us all more conscious about what we’re eating. We now demand transparency, care and honesty in our food, and it’s time we expected the same from our wines.
So, why not make 2025 the year you fall in love with well-made wine? That’s our romantic message to you this February. Cheers!
vineyardsofsherborne.co.uk
